Antique Firearm Serial Numbers

  



Following World War II, collectingfirearms became a popular trend, especially antique cartridge firearms. This field of collecting, and collecting American arms in particular, has become one of the fastest growing since the 1950s.

Overall, prices for antique guns have risen over time due to the lack of supply. Prices also vary depending on what is in popular demand. For instance, certain manufacturers, like Colt and Winchester Repeating Arms Company, are highly sought after, which causes their values to rise. As the amounts of interested collectors, values, and market research and publications grow, so too will this branch of collecting.

“It’s a growing industry and a hobby that is appealing to more and more shooters,” says Daniel Thorngren of Rock Island Auction Company. “Not only is interest in collector firearms on the rise, antique firearms as an industry is on the rise.”

Collector firearms are also increasingly being viewed as a form of tangible assets, adds Thorngren. “The U.S. economy is exiting a large recession period where anyone who had anything invested in the market lost money in one way or another. Collector firearms are alternative investments to the market, and unlike a stock, you can take it out and admire it.”

About the iGuide?Vintage Firearms Price Guide. Searching for Vintage Firearms market values? You have come to the right place! IGuide?is proud to host the online Vintage Firearms Price Guide.The price guide is maintained by Jon R. Warren, whose price guide books have been the authority on collectibles values since 1985. 800,000-900,000 are very uncommon, only 502 99's were made inbetween this serial range most of them starting with 835,XXX as the first three numbers. 900,000-925,000 made in 1956 925,000-952,000 made in 1957 952,000-960,000 made in 1958.

Types of Antique Guns

An engraved Merwin Hulbert Single Action Revolver serial no. 6499, Heritage Auctions

Both modern and antique arms are popular with collectors. Antique firearms are usually divided into two basic types:

  • Muzzleloader: This kind of firearm has a projectile or propellant charge that is loaded from the muzzle (the open end of the barrel) of the gun. Collectors do not purchase muzzleloaders to fire them; instead, they are often more interested in their historic value or in putting them on display.
  • Cartridge-Firing: Also referred to as a round or shell gun, cartridge-firing guns have ammunition packaging and cased primer made to fit within the firing chamber. These pieces are more commonly collected with the intent of shooting.

Generally speaking, firearms are divided into the following two very broad classes based on their size:

Handguns

  • Pistols: These are smaller firearms, which makers designed to be used in one hand, and the most common actions are the single shot and semi-automatic.
  • Revolvers: Revolvers are repeating firearms that have a revolving cylinder with more than one chamber and one or more barrels for firing.

Long Guns

  • Rifles: These are crafted to be shot from the shoulder, and have a barrel with grooves or “rifling” cut into the barrel walls.
  • Shotguns: Shotguns are also called scatterguns and pepper guns due to the fact that shot pellets spread upon leaving the barrel.

Materials

  • Steel: High carbon, heat-treated steel is the traditional material for firearms thanks to its durability, strength, and ability to be molded.
  • Aluminum: Firearms framed in aluminum are thought to be less durable than steel because this metal is not as strong, but it is still a popular alternative for some designs.
  • Polymer: Plastic use in firearm construction was restricted to non-structural items, including grips and recoil spring guides, until the 1970s, but since has been used more extensively because of the material’s lightweight quality, manufacturing economy, and resistance to damage.

Guns & Firearms Terminology

Action

The action of a gun is how it is loaded and fired. Examples include:

  • Single action: The firearm must be manually cocked before each shot. In other words, the trigger performs a single function.
  • Double Action: The gun can be cocked and fired with one pull of the trigger, and most often refers to pistols and revolvers.
  • Break-open: The gun’s barrel is set on a hinge, where a latch keeps the barrel closed against the receiver.
  • Bolt: One of the simplest action types for a rifle, the bolt has an operating handle with which the gunman can operate the rifle’s mechanism.
  • Pump: Also known as slide action, pump action firearms are repeating guns that require manual operation of opening and closing the action and feeding the ammunition from the magazine to the chamber.
  • Lever: Guns with lever actions are operated by a lever located underneath the firearm, near the end of the receiver. The lever opens and closes the action.
  • Semi-automatic: Semi-automatic guns fire, extract, and eject a round in the chamber and load a new round whenever the trigger is pulled.
Serial

Cartridge

The cartridge is the metal case that holds the primer, gunpowder, and bullet. The term “Magnum” denotes a very powerful cartridge.

Caliber

This denotes the diameter of the bullet in inches, although bullets are commonly measured width by length in millimeters.

Building Your Collection

Antique colt pistol serial numbers

When looking to buy or collect an antique firearm, there are a number of factors that you need to consider in order to make sure your purchase is worthwhile. The top factors that influence the value of an antique gun are listed below.

Make/Model

An unaltered Winchester Model 1873 rifle with many special order features, 1883, Rock Island Auction Company

Winchester firearms serial number lookup

This is often where the evaluation process of guns begins and is most important to individuals who collect based on specialization. Buyers gravitate toward the quality of a maker’s products, the role a make or model has played in history, or the “aura of romance” surrounding a particular manufacturer.

Examples of makes and models that are popular among collectors include post-Civil WarColt Single Action Armies,Winchester,Luger,Smith & Wesson,Merwin Hulbert, non-U.S. firearms like British makerEnfield, and Japanese maker Arisaka. The desirability of makes and models is very trend-reliant and is easily influenced by movies and the media.

Condition

First, it’s essential to note that different rating systems are used for antique firearms and modern firearms. In other words, a modern firearm with a nearly impeccable finish may be labeled as being in “very good” condition, whereas an antique firearm with 10 percent less of its finish intact may also be in “very good” condition.

That aside, condition is one of the most important factors when evaluating a gun’s value — a difference in condition can mean halving or doubling the value. There are two main evaluation systems most widely used:

  1. NRA Condition Standards: Modern guns are classified as new, excellent, very good, good, or fair. Antique guns are classified as excellent, fine, very good, good, fair, or poor.
    • New: All original parts, 100 percent original finish and in perfect condition.
    • Excellent: All original parts, over 80 percent of its original finish with sharp lettering, numerals, and design on metal and unmarred wood.
    • Fine: All original parts, over 30 percent of the original finish in tact.
    • Very Good: All original parts, 30 percent or less of the original finish in tact.
    • Good: Some minor replacement parts are present. There may be rust or light pits and it’s in good working order.
    • Fair: Some of the major parts are replaced and may need additional replacements on minor parts. Metal is rusted and there may be light pitting all over. It’s in fair working order or can be easily repaired to be in working order.
    • Poor: Both major and minor parts are replaced and it still needs major replacement parts and extensive restoration. The metal is deeply pitted and it’s generally undesired as a collector’s item.
  1. Percentage System: This system rates the percent of original finish that remains on the gun with a range of 0 – 100 percent.

“Buy the highest condition item you can afford. Condition is such a large determiner of value, so doing so ensures the best possible return. A collection of five high condition guns is more impressive than a hundred of mediocre quality,” says Thorngren.

If you refinish, over-clean, or modify a collectible gun in any way, you will likely negatively impact its value. At the same time, some collectors put less emphasis on condition than on a piece being in its original state.

History or Provenance

If a gun or firearm has been owned by a specific person or used in a historical event, it will be very appealing to certain collectors. For example, Wyatt Earp, an icon of the American West, had a Colt .45-caliber revolver that sold for $225,000 at an Arizona auction in 2014. It fetched such a high price given that it’s likely the one he used in the most legendary gunfight in Wild West history, the O.K. Corral shootout.

To accompany this trend, there has been an increased emphasis on the importance of making and maintaining documentation to prove the authenticity of the gun as historically valuable.

Rarity

Collectors’ opinions differ on the importance of rarity. There is a classic warning that indicates that just because a gun is rare, that doesn’t mean it’s valuable. But the value of a given type of gun also depends on personal preference, and there is a lot of interest in and competition around rare versions of firearms within both emerging and established specializations.

Artistic Appeal

Some firearms are prized more as art pieces for their fine engravings. There is a strong market for pieces engraved by famous 19th- and early 20th-century craftsmen during the “Golden Age” of firearms engraving. The style used flowing scrollwork and is associated with Nimschke, or New York-style engraving.

Tips for New Collectors

When starting a gun collection, it can be helpful to focus on a specialization, since the field is so broad. This will also help you become an advanced collector more quickly.

At the same time, taking a more general approach and growing an eclectic collection can also be very rewarding. This approach can also lead to better investments.

“Buy the book before you buy the gun. Educate yourself on the subject matter so you’ll know what you’re buying, if you’re paying a reasonable price for it, and it’s being represented accurately,” says Thorngren. “‘Flayderman’s Guide’ is a popular and readily available publication that covers most collector firearms.”

To help you find a direction and to make sure you will get the most enjoyment out of the collecting experience, ask yourself:

  • What do you want to do with your firearms? Perhaps you’re building a shooting battery. You will likely enjoy owning a variety of guns intended to be fired for different reasons, such as hunting.
  • Are you interested in history? Many collectors have a passion for guns with historical significance. Some collect firearms along a timeline, while others are interested in a specific era or event.
  • Do you enjoy learning how things work? Other collectors just love how guns tick and their evolution as machines.
  • Are you looking to make a financial investment? While some experts advise against collecting for the financial benefits, there are top-quality firearms that can certainly appreciate in value over time. Collecting guns for this reason requires great caution and expertise.

For those who only want to purchase firearms for their own collection, there is a special license called the Collector’s Federal Firearms License, or “C&R” FFL. This permits collectors to purchase older, collectible guns without requiring them to buy from a licensed dealer. These guns must meet the following requirements:

  • At least 50 years old
  • Certified by a government museum curator as having museum interest
  • Derived value from its novelty, rarity, or history

Buying Guns & Firearms from Auction Houses & Dealers

A 5-shot percussion Colt Side-Hammer or Root revolver, 1855, Antony Cribb Ltd.

In order to make the most educated, rewarding decision, keep in mind the following when starting or continuing a gun collection:

  1. Set a budget.Know what you can afford and collect the best condition guns and firearms that budget can buy you.
  2. Understand the terms. Read and understand any terms of sale and guarantee of descriptions. This will ensure that you know how protected you are if your purchase ends up not aligning with what was explicitly described. Like in most markets, fakes exist, so it’s important to take the proper precautions.
  3. Compare prices.Do your homework and look into the market value of the firearms that interest you. Look at gun shops, read websites, and browse credible publications like Gun List.
  4. Be patient. Don’t rush into a purchase or convince yourself it’s the right choice. If it doesn’t feel right, just wait. You will find something that suits your needs and tastes.
  5. Know the laws:It’s essential that you are aware of your rights and the laws regarding buying and selling firearms, at auction or otherwise. The laws vary depending on country, and some countries make exceptions for antiques. Use online resources such as GunPolicy.org to learn more and collect intelligently.
  6. Buy what you like. In the end, it’s your collection. Try not to pay attention to others who are competitive or have different opinions. The most important thing is that you find your purchase personally rewarding.

Conservation

Firearm Serial Number Lookup

With your new collection comes the responsibility of caring for it. Here are a number of conservation best practices for antique firearms.

Environment

Store your firearm collection in a room safely kept at a consistent 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Otherwise, the wood stocks may expand and cause permanent cracks. Also try to keep the room at around 50 percent humidity to avoid metal corrosion or cracking.

Protection

Antique Gun Serial Numbers

Depending on the type of collectible firearms you have, it’s best to avoid handling your guns with bare hands too much, as the oils in your skin can cause damage. You can buy cotton gloves for handling your objects so you can still enjoy your collection. In addition, you can invest in a quality microcrystalline wax to protect your guns from the elements.

Cleaning

You should dust regularly with a clean, dry cloth. Don’t use spray products and remember to use gloves. If you’ve just purchased an antique rifle or pistol that has residue of its box or holster, you can make a wood or metal cleaning solution.

  • Wood: Mix water with a few drops of a mild detergent and wipe the wood surfaces with a dampened cloth. Rinse the cleaned surfaces in plain water.
  • Metal: Use a soft scraper, such as a pre-1980 penny or fine grade of bronze wool, to remove corrosion products.

Additional Resources

GunsAmerica
Gun Digest
NRA Museum
NRA Museum: Conservation
Guns International
PBS.org
The Shooter’s Log
GunPolicy.org
Gun List USA


PO Box 2068 Ormond Beach, FL 32175 (386) 677-7314

Pre-1899 Firearms FAQ
by James Rawles, Clearwater Trading Company

Revised April 30, 2004
In response to numerous requests, here are the answers to the questions
that I most commonly get on pre-1899 firearms. The second half of this FAQ
posting lists serial number cut-offs for the 1899 threshold for many gun makers.
Q: What constitutes 'antique' under U.S. law?
A: Although your State and local laws may vary, any firearm with a receiver actually made before Jan.
1, 1899 is legally 'antique.' and not considered a 'firearm' under Federal law. This refers to the actual
date of manufacture of the receiver/frame, not just model year or patent date marked. (For example,
only low serial number Winchester Model 1894 lever actions are actually antique.) No FFL is required
to buy or sell antiques across state lines-- they are in the same legal category as a muzzle-loading
replica. I regularly ship them right to people's doorstep via UPS, with no 'paper trail.' Think of it as
the last bastion of gun ownership privacy.
Q: I saw a post that said that pre-1899s are considered modern “firearms” if they are chambered to fire
ammunition that is available off-the-shelf. Is this correct?
That is absolutely incorrect. ANY gun manufactured before Jan. 1, 1899 (other than a machinegun or
other NFA category, such as a short-barreled gun) is NOT controlled in any way by Federal law.
There is NO Federal requirement for sales of these guns to be handled by Federally licensed dealers.
They may be freely bought and sold across State lines by private parties, regardless of what cartridge
they are chambered in. (However, State or local laws vary.)
Q: Does sporterizing or re-chambering an antique end its exemption?
A: Sporterizing, re-barreling, or re-chambering an antique gun does not effect its legal status. Thus, I
can legally sell folks Mauser sporters that have been converted to modern cartridges (like .308 Winchester!),
without having to go through the 'FFL to FFL' hassle.

Q: Would an antique serial number range gun be worth more than an otherwise identical gun made just
a few years later?
A: Pre-1899 production guns now bring a 20 to 60% premium over identical condition guns made
AFTER 1898. Based on market trends, I expect that premium to increase considerably in the next few
years. Many of my customers are commenting that they previously had no interest in 'antique' guns,
but now want one or more because they are paranoid about additional gun laws. For the time being at
least, pre-1899 are completely EXEMPT from all federal laws. Presumably, this would also mean that
they would be exempt from registration if they ever have nationwide gun registration.... Think about
the possibilities.
Q: But what if I find a pre-1899 gun at a gun shop that was mistakenly logged into the
dealer's 'bound book' of post-1899 firearms? Won’t I have to fill out a Form 4473
(yellow form)?
A: No. All the dealer has to do is log the gun out as: 'Inadvertent entry. Pre-1899
manufactured receiver. No FFL required.' (If the dealer gives you any grief and insists on
the yellow form, a call to any ATF branch office will confirm this.)
Q: Will the prices of pre-1899s continue to go up?
A: Yes, and the rate of increase is likely to accelerate! After Nov. 30, 1998
the permanent Brady rules went into effect. On that date all post-1899 gun sales--long guns and handguns--came under the federal control of 'national instant background checks.' Subsequently there has been a much bigger interest in guns that are Federally exempt and that can be bought via relatively anonymous mail order!
Q: Are pre-1899s included in the Brady II background check law?
A: No. They are exempt.
Q: How does the law on pre-1899 antiques and replicas actually read?
A: From the Gun Control Act of 1968 (Which modified Title 18, U.S. Code):
18 USC 921 (a)(16).
(A) any firearm (including any firearm with a matchlock, flintlock,
percussion cap, or similar type of ignition system) manufactured in or
before 1898;
or
(B) any replica of any firearm described in subparagraph (A) if such replica --
(i) is not designed or redesigned for using rimfire or conventional centerfire fixed ammunition, or
(ii) uses rimfire or conventional centerfire fixed ammunition which is no longer manufactured
in the United States and which is not readily available in the ordinary channels of commercial
trade.
Q: What are the primary advantages in investing in pre-1899 guns rather than modern
(post-1898) guns, or replicas?
A: They are not considered 'firearms' under Federal law. Thus they will
most likely be exempt from any new Federal gun registration law.
(Sadly, registration looks inevitable within a few years unless there is
a massive swing of the pendulum back toward a constitutional republic.)
I can literally send you a pre-1899 handgun or rifle right to your
doorstep without a lick of paperwork. (Unless your live in for example New Jersey,
New York City or D.C.) It is a great loophole.
The Dec. 31, 1898 cut-off date has been in existence, (unchanged),
since 1968. Thus the pool of available pre-1899s continues to shrink
with each passing year, and because of it they A.) Look more and more
antique/obsolete to lawmakers--i.e. not worth bothering about. and B.)
Grow more valuable with every passing year. Pre-1899 guns are already
bring a considerable premium. People are willing to pay more for privacy.
So the bottom line is that with pre-1899s you are buying both privacy
(the lack of a 'paper trail' and probable exemption from future
registration) plus a great investment. Why buy a replica (such as the
Trapdoor Springfield, Winchester, and Schofield top break revolver
replicas currently on the market--and requiring the Federal 'Yellow'
Form 4473), when you can buy the real thing (with far greater long term
investment value, and NO paperwork) for just a little bit more money?
Q: Do you have a list of 'cut-off' serial numbers for determining if my gun is an antique?
A: The following is a listing that combines information that I have compiled over the years, plus some information that was kindly provided by Jim Supica, proprietor of The Old Town Station. (OldTownSta@aol.com), Dixie Gun Works, Dennis Kroh, and Ben Sansing.
Here is a partial list of pre-1899 'cut-off' serial numbers:
Ballard rifles, all are pre-1899
Beesley (Frederick Beesley, England) shotguns - serial numbers below 1500
Boss & Co. shotguns - serial numbers below 4200
Churchill (E.J. Churchill, Ltd., England) shotguns - serial numbers below 959
Colt 1878 & 1883 Shotguns, all are pre-1899
Colt-Berdan, Colt-Burgess, and Colt-Franklin, all are pre-1899
Colt Lightning Rifles, all large frame are pre-1899; Medium frame:
serial numbers below 84,000; Small frame: serial numbers below 35,334
Colt Percussion Revolvers (and cartridge conversions), all are pre-1899
Colt Spur trigger revolvers, all are pre-1899
Colt 1st and 2nd Model Derringers, all are pre-1899
Colt Single Action Army (SAA) and Bisely revolvers with serial numbers
under 182,000. I consider SAAs with serials between 165,000 and 182,000
(1896 to 1898 production) the most desirable, since they have steel
frames (and are thus safe to shoot modern smokeless loads), yet they are
Federally exempt.
Colt Model 1878 Double Action Frontier revolvers (serial numbers below
38,200)
Colt M1889 Navy .38, all are pre-1899
Colt New Police .32 (serial numbers below 7,300)
Colt New Pocket Model (ser. # below 11,900)
Colt 'New Army' or 'New Navy' .38 and .41 (ser. # below 115,000)
Colt Model 1877 (Lightning and Thunderer) .38 and .41 (ser. # below
111,500)
Colt Model 1878 ('Frontier') D.A. (ser. # below 41,000)
Colt New Service, first year of production (1898) only. (ser. # below
250) (I found one for my own collection. It only took ten years to track one down...)
Dickson (John Dickson, Edinburgh, Scotland) shotguns - serial numbers below 5000
Forehand and Wadsworth .32 or .38 (all made before 1891.)
Fox (A.H. Fox) shotguns - all are modern
Francotte (Auguste Francotte & Co.) shotguns -
Best grade: serial # below 16310
Medium grade: serial # below 29614
Bottom grade: serial # below 305769
Grant (Stephen Grant & Sons, London) shotguns - serial # below 7050
Greener sidelock shotguns (Best grade: serial # below 5311)
Greener boxlock shotguns (serial # below 47130)
Holland & Holland shotguns : Best grade: serial # below 22000, Paradox guns: serial # below 15400
Hopkins and Allen _Mfg_. changed its name to Hopkins and Allen _Arms_ in 1898.
Ithaca Baker Model shotguns - all are pre-1899
Ithaca Crass Model shotguns (serial # below 38399)
Ithaca Hammer shotguns - other - (serial # below 33011)
Ithaca Hammerless shotguns - other - (serial # below 32988)
Iver Johnson top break revolvers. Special thanks to Ben Sansing ( swsansing@juno.com ) for the following Iver Johnson information:
There were three main models of Iver Johnson 'Safety' topbreak revolvers. 1st & 2nd Model
revolvers were built for black powder cartridges only. Continued use of higher pressure smokeless in
these revolvers will result in them shooting loose, getting out of time, and parts breakage.
[Editor’s note: So if you want to shoot smokeless in a pre-1899 IJ revolvers, you must handload
cartridges to match the lower black powder pressure. Use extreme caution and err on the side of lower
pressure when working up a load.]
The 3rd Model was especially beefed-up, redesigned, and 'fortified' for use with smokeless powder
and is fine for modern factory ammo. Alas, only 1st (all) & 2nd (some) Model revolvers fall into the
legal Antique category.
1st Model (1894-1896): SINGLE-POST top latch; leaf springs;
cylinder 'free-wheeling' when at rest
2nd Model (1897-1908): DOUBLE-POST top latch; leaf springs;
cylinder 'free-wheeling' when at rest
3rd Model (1909-1941): DOUBLE-POST top latch; COIL springs;
cylinder locked when at rest
If you've determined, from the above characteristics, that you have a 2nd Model IJ revolver, here's
how to determine whether it was made before 1899 (and thus a legal antique) or not. Fortunately, Iver
Johnson built revolvers by the 'batch' system, and only changed & upgraded their guns once a year,
so it is quite easy to determine whether an IJ is antique or not, just by cursory examination. In only
*one* case (.32 small frame *hammer* model) does the serial number need to be checked. In other
cases, you can 'tell at a glance' once you know what to look for.
Pre-1899 2nd Model guns will exhibit the following
characteristics:
Large frame (.38) HAMMERLESS: Separate hammer shroud on
frame (shroud not integral with frame)
Small Frame (.32) HAMMERLESS: Separate hammer shroud on
frame (shroud not integral with frame)
Note: Integral frame w/shroud introduced start of 1899
production
Large frame (.38) hammer: Patent dates on top rib of BARREL
Small Frame (.32) hammer: Patent dates on top rib of BARREL, *AND* must check serial number
prefix (left side of grip strap underneath grip - yes, you must remove the grips for this one):
A = 1897; E = 1898; F = 1899. The easy way to remember: If it has an 'F' it FLUNKS the Antique
Test.
Note 1: Patent dates moved from top rib of barrel at start of 1899 production.
Note 2: All .22 rimfire IJ topbreak revolvers are post-1898 (The .22 chambering began in 1901).
Lancaster (Charles Lancaster, London) shotguns - serial # below 8353
Lang (Joseph Lang, London) shotguns - serial # below 8700
Lefever Arms Co. Sidelock shotguns - serial # below 28916
Lee-Enfield .303 Carbines, all are pre-1899 but all Lee-Enfield .303 Rifles are post-1899
Lee-Metford .303 Rifles, all are pre-1899
Marlin rifles--serial number groups not consecutive! The only models
that ended production before 1899 are the Model 1881, 1888, Model
1889, and 1891.
Marlin-Ballard rifles, all are pre-1899
Mauser M1896 'Broomhandle' pistols (serial # below 15,000--most of
these have cone ring hammers--are pre-1899
Mauser Bolt Action Rifles. See the following listings by model year/country:
M1889 Belgian, most rifles are pre-1899. However, most carbines with
yatagan bayonet mounts are post 1899 and thus legally modern.
M1890 Turkish contract, all are pre-1899
M1891 Argentine contract rifles and carbines, all marked LOEWE are pre-1899, those marked DWM are not
M1891 Columbian contract (Argentine Pattern) most are pre-1899
M1891 Ecuadoran contract (Argentine Pattern) most are pre-1899
M1891 Peruvian contract, none are pre-1899
M1891/1892/1893 Spanish rifles, all are pre-1899
M1893/M1895 Spanish *carbines* --see date on receiver ring
M1893 Turkish contract rifles, all are pre-1899 (Note: Many of there were re-barreled to 8 x57 Mauser at Ankara in the 1930s & 1940s, but they are still legally 'pre-1899')
M1894 Brazilian contract, all are pre-1899
M1894 Swedish carbines --see date on receiver ring--about 40% are
pre-1899
M1895 Bolivian contract (M1891 Argentine pattern) all are pre-1899
M1895 Chilean contract by Ludwig Loewe --all are pre-1899
M1895 Chilean contract by DWM--Many later examples are post-1899, However, it has been determined with certainty that early DWMs with A thru K prefix serial numbers are
pre-1899. Special thanks to The Dutchman in Indiana for the 'in captivity' report on a K-prefix M1895 DWM that is marked 1898.
M1895 Chinese contract (Chilean Pattern)--all are pre-1899
M1895 Costa Rican contract (Chilean Pattern) by Ludwig Loewe are
pre-1899 (most DWMs are not!)
M1895 El Salvadoran contract (Chilean pattern) by DWM. Most are
post-1899 except early production guns with three digit serial numbers.
M1895/96/97 Orange Free State contracts (Marked 'O.V.S.' Some also have
Chilean crests.) All are pre-1899
M1895 Paraguayan contract (Chilean pattern) by DWM. Most are post-1899
M1895 Persian contract (Chilean Pattern) by Ludwig Loewe are pre-1899
(most DWMs are not!)
M1895 Peruvian contract (Chilean Pattern) by Ludwig Loewe are pre-1899
(most DWMs are not!)
M1895 Uruguayan contract (Chilean Pattern) by Ludwig Loewe are pre-1899
(most DWMs are not!)
M1896 Swedish rifles --see date on receiver ring--only about 1% are
pre-1899, since 1899 was the first year of full production on this
model at Mauser, Oberndorf, and 1898 was the first production year
at Carl Gustafs stads Gevarsfaktori.
M1896 ('Protoype M1898') German, all are pre-1899. Note: Some prototype
98s were sold to Siam and overstamped with Siamese markings.
M1898 German--see date on receiver ring--less than 1% are pre-1899
Merwin Hulbert revolvers, all are pre-1899
Mosin-Nagant rifles--see date marked UNDER the rear tang, near the action screw. You have to take
off the wood to see it. The date that one first sees on top is actually on the rear of the BARREL, not
on the receiver itself. Many of these receivers that were rebarreled by the Finns (even up to 1970) were actually manufactured before 1899 and are indeed antique (though these are among the most accurate rifles ever made). Note: Some of the tang dates are two digit, such as “95” (for 1895) or “9^6” for 1896--with a vertical arrow or hammer between the digits.) Thanks to Dennis Kroh of Empire arms for this information! Note that Empire Arms (http://www.empirearms.com) occasionally (often) has pre-1899 production military rifles available for sale.
Nagant revolvers -those produced at Liege, Belgium (ser. number under 20,000) are pre-1899. But all of those produced at the Tula arsenal are legally modern.
Parker shotguns (serial # below 89350)
Purdey (James Purdey & Sons, London) shotguns - serial # below 16736
Remington Model 1875 revolvers, all are pre-1899
Remington Model 1890 revolvers, all are pre-1899
Remington-Keene bolt actions, all are pre-1899
Remington-Lee bolt actions, all U.S. military models are pre-1899, but
most civilian models are legally modern
Remington Model 1889 Shotguns (serial # below 89124)
Rigby (John Rigby & Co., Dublin) rifles and shotguns- serial # below 16600
Schmidt Rubin (Swiss) Rifles. Model 1889 - all are pre-1899
Schmidt Rubin (Swiss) Model 1893 Carbines (serial # below 5000)
Schmidt Rubin (Swiss) Rifles. Model 1889/96 or 96/11 (which were built on pre-existing 89/96 receivers) are pre-1899 if they have a serial number less than
236,500. Note: Only the 96/11 (and later models) are safe to use the high pressure M11 cartridge!
Schmidt Rubin (Swiss) Model 1897 'Cadet' short rifles (serial # below 2100)
Scott (W&C Scott a.k.a. Webley & Scott) shotguns - serial # below 56000
L. C. Smith double barrel shotguns (serial # below 61199)
S&W Single Action (SA) .32 and .38 top break revolvers, all are pre-1899
(S&W Spur Trigger: With the exception of one rare S&W model, production of
single-action spur trigger revolver frames had essentatially stopped by
1892. So, just about all of these will be antiques.)
S&W Double Action (DA) .32 top break revolvers w/hammer (serial #
below 209301)
S&W DA .32 top break hammerless ('lemon squeezer') revolvers
(serial # below 91400)
S&W DA .38 top break revolvers with hammer (serial # below 382022)
S&W DA .38 top break hammerless ('lemon squeezer') revolvers
(serial # below 119900)
S&W Model 3 and New Model 3 single action revolvers, all are pre-1899
S&W .45 Schofield revolvers, all are pre-1899
S&W DA First Model revolver, all are pre-1899
S&W DA 'Frontier' revolvers, all are pre-1899
S&W DA 'Favorite' revolvers, all are pre-1899
Important Note: An article by Roy Jinks (S&W factory historian), some
years ago reported that all of the *frames* for the large frame
top-break S&W's were made prior to 1899, and hence all New Model #3's,
.44 DA 1st Models, DA Frontiers, and related models are considered
'antique' by the ATF, even though they may have been cataloged and even
assembled well into the early 20th century. Special thanks to Roy Jinks
and the S&W Colloctor's Association for this information.
S&W Model 1891, all are pre-1899
S&W 1st Model hand ejector (.32s only), all are pre-1899
Sharps Co. Rifles, all are pre-1899
Snider-Enfield Rifles and Carbines, all are pre-1899
U.S. ('Trapdoor') Springfield .45-70, all are pre-1899
U.S. .30-40 Krag bolt actions (serial # below 152670)
Swift revolver (Made by Iver Johnson), all are pre-1895
Webley Mk. I .455 Revolvers (Later Marks are post-1898)
Westley-Richards & Co. rifles and shotguns (all except 'T' boxlock)- serial # below 15818
Westley-Richards & Co. 'T' boxlock shotguns- serial # below 13438
Whitney Arms Co., all are pre-1899
Winchester Model 1866, all are pre-1899
Winchester Model 1873 (serial # below 525923)
Winchester Model 1876, all are pre-1899
Winchester Model 1885 (serial # below 84701)
Winchester Model 1886 (serial # below 119193)
Winchester Model 1887 (all were produced before 1899).
Winchester Model 1890 (serial # below 64521)
Winchester Model 1892 (serial # below 165432)
Winchester Model 1893 (serial # below 34204)
Winchester Model 1894 (serial # below 147685)
Winchester Model 1895 (serial # below 19872)
Winchester Model 1897 Shotgun (serial # below 63633)
Winchester-Hotchkiss Bolt Action Rifles, all are pre-1899
Winchester-Lee (U.S. Navy) Straight-Pull 6 mm (serial # below 20000)
Woodward (James Woodward & Sons, London) - serial # below 15327
I hope that you find this information useful. Your comments, additions,
and corrections are appreciated. Thanks again to Jim Supica, proprietor
of The Old Town Station (OldTownSta@aol.com) snail mail: c/o P.O. Box
15351, Lenexa, Kansas [66285], Dennis Kroh of Empire Arms
(http://www.empirearms.com), snail-mail PO Box 2068, Ormond Beach,
FL 32175, phone (386) 677-7314, and Dixie Gun Works
James Wesley, Rawles <><
e-mail: rawles@usa.net
I'm the author of numerous firearms FAQS on topics including:
AR-15 magazines, M1 Carbine magazines, M1911 magazines, M14/M1A magazines,
Mauser rifles, FN/FALs and L1A1s, and European Ammo Box
Markings Translations. These FAQs are available at the rec.guns web site:
http://www.recguns.com/

Winchester Firearms Serial Number Lookup

Copyright Sept. 2003 by James Wesley, Rawles

Antique Shotgun Serial Numbers


PO Box 2068 Ormond Beach, FL 32175 (386) 677-7314